Ba shikulu…this is Lusaka!

When people who don’t know Africa discover I’m living in Zambia, the reaction is “You’re so brave”, and “Is it safe” etc. I find this endlessly amusing, as I am convinced that Lusaka is a much safer city than most Canadian cities. Granted, I do stand out & could be regarded as a target for mugging- but that has only ever happened to me once or twice. I have a brilliant example (& yes, this is characteristic of Lusaka only…there are several brutal & rough African cities in which I would not move around with so much confidence) of the kindness I have experienced here.

I was coming home after coaching at BSA one evening. The sun had dropped (as it does so quickly here), & I found myself rushing home so as not to be moving around when it’s dark dark- “Dark dark” refers to late night dark, not the dark that is only beginning to settle in after sunset. (Sorry mom & dad, I do try to avoid walking after dark but it takes me about 20 minutes to walk home from the grounds…& the sun sets in 15)*grin*. So I was being careful & checking to see if any shady figures were watching me from afar. But I have this small problem with night vision. All of the shadows confuse the potholes & I end up walking like a fool, high stepping through the darkness hoping not to trip on a rock or fall into a hole. (And there are about a bazillion potholes on the short dirt road that leads to my flat). I was literally on the other side of the road from my flat when an elderly man came up from behind & asked me if I was all right, asking why I couldn’t see my way. I kind of chuckled, this is one of those ancient African men who probably has glaucoma, & he realized I couldn’t see where I was stepping. He simply said “Follow my footsteps, you’re safe. I’ll walk you home”. I had to chuckle & say “Zicomo ba shikulu, but I’ve reached”, as I stumbled across the road into the safety of the well-lit yard. I only heard his soft chuckle as he set off at what would have been a break-neck pace for me.

NB: Shikulu means Grandfather; it is a respectful way to address an elder.